How to make a re-usable Telemark Binding Template


Our good buddy Craig D. put together an awesome tutorial on his site but I wanted to add a bit more to the subject.

Recently I have been using a binding and transferring it from ski to ski.  At first when I mounted it I used many of the methods described by Craig.  For me, it was a slow process and it was prone to error (at least with my impatience and ADD). I wanted to speed up the process and make a reliable, re-usable jig that would cut down on the amount of stripped screw holes.

The first versions of this evolved from using a plastic plate or a flimsy tupperware.  When I finally decided to build a correct one, I want and got a large plastic bin lid.  I looked for one that was transparent and flat. I also wanted to be able to mount my heel pieces in one go, so I got a lid that could fit the entire binding with my boot in it.



-Tape Measure and Straight Edge Ruler

-Straight Edge

-Utility Knife

-Permanent Markers: I used two different colors for ease of use.

-Dremmel (optional, there are other was to cut the plastic)

-Nail Punch


Photo Oct 13, 7 50 52 PM
Cutting out a square plate. Plastic was too brittle to use scissors and too thick for a razor blade

After cleaning up the melted/scrap plastic I had to find the center of the sheet.

Photo Oct 13, 7 52 57 PM
Finding the center of the sheet.

I used a piece of scrap hickory for my straight edge.  In retrospect a builders square would have been better.

Once I found the center line, I used a Sharpie and marked dots at .5cm intervals.  Both on the top of the sheet and the bottom.

Photo Oct 13, 7 56 25 PM
Red is the center line. Black dots at symmetrical intervals.

Next I took my straight edge and utility knife and scored the dots.  Be careful and methodical to connect the correct dots.  It gets confusing and you start seeing double after a while (I connected a few wrong dots and had an x or two on the sheet).

Photo Oct 13, 8 05 58 PM
Scribed lines.

I also number the lines so that when I am mounting I have an easy reference.  This was a trick from old 22 Designs templates.

Once I have the center line and the scribed width’s I layout the binding holes:

Photo Oct 13, 8 13 14 PM
Transferring the binding holes to the sheet.

I also ended up adding a few lines so that I could get the flanks of the binding lined up perfectly.

Photo Oct 13, 8 13 50 PM
Double check, double check.

Having a few different measuring tools was helpful.  Here I am double checking the distance’s of the holes to the lines. Take your time and make sure the holes are perfect, one of the most critical steps!

Photo Oct 13, 8 24 35 PM
Finding my boot sole center and marking it for future mounts.

Finding the boot sole center just takes fiddling.  I measured my boot, subtracted the toe and heel lips and divided by two.  I am a 28 mondo and was 15cm for reference. Then I put the binding on the sheet, lined up the holes, estimated where the toe would be placed found my boot sole center. I also mark my boot sole center so I can throw the sheet on skis and mount quickly.

Mount er' up!
Mount er’ up!

The last step is to punch out the plastic with a nail punch (upper right hand corner below the rasp). This is a critical step and is worth taking your time.  Make sure to hit hard enough and go thru the plastic so that when the sheet is on the ski, it transfers the nail punch mark thru.  If your punches are off on this step, so too will all subsequent mounts.


Lastly, and for a mount, I use the scribed lines on either side to perfectly center the template on the ski.  Tap away, remove the template and then drill your holes.


You can also notice the two black dots on my center line in the bottom right hand of the last picture; they are my heel block holes. One stop shopping!


Watch a previous video here on the complete steps for mounting.


Hope this helps somebody out sometime!





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